THIMBLE PEAK (9,805') CLASS 4
Location: 1.5 miles SSW of Kirkwood, CA
ROUTE A
Drive: Take Highway 88 to the Kirkwood Road junction, used for
the approach to the ski resort, and drive 1.4 miles south on the
main Kirkwood Road to the main complex with the Post Office and
General Store. Parking shouldn't be a real problem during the
off-ski season, if no events are taking place.
Climb: Behind the "Lodge," a dirt road takes off from
the vicinity of "Wagon Wheel 2" ski lift. Follow this
main dirt road south, through a gate, to "Caples Crest"
ski lift. Take the road left and over a dip, along the lift towers.
There are two ways to go here. One can take an unsigned equestrian
trail right about 100 feet past the dip, and at about the first
bend. Follow this to its highpoint, then head cross-country up
steep, grassy slopes to the main Kirkwood crest.
For an easier alternative, stay on the dirt road, past the dip
with the equestrian trail. This dirt road switchbacks up with
nice views of the resort area. Take a fork right, following the
local crest, and ignore signed "Shep's Trail," which
goes indistinctly to the left. The main road heads back south
to a prominently lift-serviced hill. Follow a use trail up over
the next hill southwest and continue along the crest, heading
cross-country past warning signs about the cliffs to the right
(north). After a dip, you will see the summit crags of Thimble
Peak far up ahead and above. About here, the route using the equestrian
trail comes up from the right.
Hike cross-country and ascend to the ridge that leads west to
the peak. Skiing warning signs mark the right side of this route.
A rubbly hill appears to be at the juncture of three ridges. Climb
this small bump, and, from its top, you will see the final highpoint
to the south about 25 feet away. A rock horn makes for a good
belay anchor here. Descend to a small ledge which leads to a sharp
notch. Climb the knife-edged, very exposed, narrow arete, taking
care with the holds, and up two large, rock "steps."
A large horn about 7 feet below the top makes a good place for
a large sling for protection. Ahead, a steep mantle brings one
quickly to the highpoint. There are no great anchors, but a large
crack may offer a placement opportunity for a large chock or two.
There is room for a few people on top.
ROUTE B
Drive: Take Highway 88 to an unsigned, gravel road, which is
0.5 mile east from Silver Lake Campground or 5.5 miles west from
Kirkwood Inn. This dirt road south leads in a few feet to primitive
parking. A sign here states, "Horse Canyon Trail 17E21."
and "Scout Carson Lake 5 Summit City Creek 9."
Climb: Take the trail heading southeast which traverses under
the spectacular southwest face of Thunder Mountain. Climb steadily
along the trail, and after 3-4 miles, head left at a junction.
Climb to a saddle to the southeast of Thimble Peak. Climb cross-country
left and up, traversing to the hill just north of the summit spire,
and join Route A.
WINTER SKI ASCENT: Routes A or B will do. A Kirkwood ski lift rises to the ridge to the north, allowing for a short winter ascent, if permission to "ski out-of-bounds" is granted.
TRIP STATS: Route A, 2,000 feet gain, 3 miles one way by the dirt road, or 2 miles one way heading by the equestrian trail; Route B, 2,600 feet gain, 5 miles one way; winter ski ascent, same via both routes.
Notes: The volcanic, knobby
agglomerate does not inspire confidence, but it has been climbed
by many parties. Bob Miller, a Sierra Club member, placed the
register, and climbs the entire route unroped. The summit crag
seems to overhang on both sides of the arete, so a rope is highly
recommended!
It appears that the ridge traverse from Thunder Mountain is mainly,
if not all, class 1, except for the final class 4 climb. It seems
that the Thimble Peak summit crag can also be reached by heading
east or northeast cross-country from several other points along
the Horse Canyon ORV trail, which runs further to the west, than
going by the suggested Route B.
Back to Northern Sierra Peaks Home Page